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SKU:37284641
Tough conditions demand tough truck shocks. The large bore KYB MonoMax provides the additional stability that heavier, more powerful or high center of gravity vehicles demand. The KYB MonoMax is a heavy duty monotube shock absorber that provides the most handling, control and durability of any KYB shock; and it’s just for trucks. The MonoMax’s tough design automatically adjusts to driving conditions with fade-free performance. The KYB MonoMax has an outstanding reputation for vehicles that do real work, go off-road, tow a trailer or haul heavy loads. It uses a work-ready, zinc-coated steel piston ring and includes an off-road dust boot.
Maximum performance upgrade with up to 40% more damping performance than standard shock absorbers
Perfect solution when you need to upgrade suspension performance on your Jeep
Truck monotube design outperforms all other standard shock absorbers
Zinc-coated, stainless steel piston ring provides a positive seal in the most extreme conditions
Rubber boot to protect the shaft and keep dirt and debris away from the seals
These are good. review done. on to what you should know, and learning from my mistakes.1. if your jeep cherokee has the sagging rear end, these are what you need. they firm it up and the ride is basically like new. firm, but not jarring. (update) the ride is still good, but the rear sunk down after a few months.2. i made the mistake of buying the excel-g's and they did not assist the springs like these. they resisted movement, but didn't have lots of pressure. these are hard to depress for a strong man. i'd estimate about 100 lbs of consistent pressure is required before they start compressing, and about 200+ lbs of pressure to push them all the way down. more power is required to make them move faster. the excel-g's depressed with about 10-20 lbs of pressure.3. the bad news if you're not terribly strong, they don't come bound up, like the excel-g's. they are fully open in the box, so you'll have to depress them if you can't make the clearance space. if your stabilizer bar bushings are in a functional state, it shouldn't be a problem, but they can wear away and this is something you'll have to deal with if they do.4. for the front, you have 1 bolt up top, and 2 below. the top bolt may spin with your old shock. use vice grips on the OLD shock only, to prevent it from turning endlessly. don't clamp the new one, or you could damage the seal.5. when tightening the top bolt, don't zip tie the rubber boot covers until after it is completely tightened. you will twist up and possibly ruin your rubber protective boot. i caught it in time and learned my lesson.6. pull the bolts out gently and slowly. the bolts breaking on old jeep shocks is notorious. speed and friction creates heat. the bolts may seize and break suddenly. then you're in a real pickle. i learned from other people's mistakes on this.7. for the rear, you have one at the bottom and two at the top. the back is super easy, provided you don't break any bolts. extensions on the ratchet makes this a breeze.8. jack from the unibody, not the axle. this is common sense, but it might not occur to someone to do so. you want the strut/shock to be fully expanded so you don't have to struggle to get it out of there and in place.9. tools you'll need. 14mm wrench, 14mm socket & ratchet, 13mm wrench, 13mm socket & ratchet, 19mm socket, ratchet extensions, a jack, jackstands for redundant safety, lug wrench, wheel chocks/cinder block, and cutters for the zip ties.10. the front is more difficult than the back, because of the limited workspace around the engine area, and the top bolt's inclination to spin while you're trying to work on it.
